2004 up Dodge Durango dont have Spark plug wires? or timing chain? Then what should you change when changing?

2004 up Dodge Durango dont have Spark plug wires? or timing chain? Then what should you change when changing the spark plug? Spark plug only?





http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cXQdaWqC6鈥?/a>|||Why do you want to change anything. The timing CHAIN (not belt) lasts the life of the truck. If you have no mis fire or any codes from the check engine light then you don%26#039;t change anything. You should change the oil, air cleaner and such as regular maint. Other wise if it ain%26#039;t broke don%26#039;t fix it.|||the plug wires are not the old type even though they exist/they are more like power type of wires that turn the coils on when the puter tells them to/forget the timing/if its off the stove wont run/plugs only on replacement/

How much to change a timing chain on an '89 Toyota Pickup?

The local independent Japanese mechanic is quoting me $900. Is that ballpark or too much? I live in Southern California...|||Check with your nearest authorized Toyota repair garage to get their estimate and then check around a couple of *recommended good* independent repair shops for a %26quot;guaranteed%26quot; job, and choose the one that looks the best for YOU! Talk with the *Head Mechanic* at each place and have him/her explain -- in detail -- just *what* will have to be done to do the job correctly and approximately what each operation contributes to the overall cost for the completed, guaranteed job.|||http://www.google.com/search?q=How+much+鈥?/a>|||I use to work for a Japanese Dealership and that sounds About right.they are not too cheap to replace...Make sure hes replacing the whole sprocket assembly.





1-Crank gear


1-Cam Gear


1-New Timing Chain


1-Chain Tensioner (tensioned by Oil Pressure)


1-Chain guide or Rubbing Guide


this will give you a new smooth running engine





This will cost around $1200 but all new.

2001 dodge intrepid change timing chain, the car has a hole in the right bank valve cover?

Teh car was running and started to run rough when the hood was opened it has a hole in the passenger side valve cove. It looks like the cahin is still intack and not broken. cannot tell what actually put the hole in the cover. Could something have come loose inside to cause the hole ???|||Yes, you have possibly broken a timing chain tensioner and it came through the valve cover or the chain rubbed a hole in it|||Most likely one of the guides broke and the chain threw it up and through the valve cover (don%26#039;t you love plastic?). Only a tear down will tell just what came loose and what all it needs.





In the past I have seen this caused by sludge build up, worn water pump and chain tensioners not receiving adequate oil.





My guess is the tensioner failed as this is what I run into most often. There is a chain tensioner package available now that includes a new primary chain, tensioner and all of the guides.





Did it ever have a chattering noise when started up? That is the most common complaint I hear when a tensioner has failed. It may also be assumed that the chain has jumped time. If so, the likelihood of some valves being bent is very good.|||more than likely that one may have jumped timing causing this to happen to it,you,ll have to tear it down and see how bad it is before you try and repair it,there may be the possibility that it could have a bent valve or two also,either way you have to tear in to it to check it,it must have a lot of miles on it to do this,usually they wont do this until they get over 200 k on them ,good luck on it.|||If it%26#039;s a 3.5 ltr engine, it mean the belt needs replacing.|||You didn%26#039;t specify what engine, but I assume it is a 2.7, there is much info on this engine design, and from what I understand this engine should use a synthetic type oil, From my experience the LH, LHS line has a cooling design flaw, that is for whatever reason it requires much airflow to sustain an operating temperature that the oil can survive in. Oil breaks down in the presence of heat and causes sludge and varnish deposits, which over time (as little as 30K miles) can cause major problems w/ this engine. The hole is a result of sometime along the chain area breaking, a guide would be my guess, an inspection and complete tear down is in order before you lose the whole motor, expect to replace the oil pick up tube as well, due to lack of oil issue (debris in the pick-up tube will cause bearing and piston pin failure quickly), Chrysler has been denying warranty claims on this engine for a while, It has been a problem child when non synthetic oil has been used and longer than recommended intervals have been observed

How often would you change a timing chain in an import engine such as hyundai, nissan, toyota etc?

This is a dubious question. Most foreign car 4 cylinder engines have a timing BELT. These MUST be changed according to the intervals set up in the maintenance section of the owner%26#039;s manual. Usually, it%26#039;s around 90-100,000 miles. If this service is NOT performed, many engines will bend valves and get very pricey to fix. Preventative maintenance is the way to go! Other engines, like BMW and most Mercedes Benzes, have timing chains. These, sometimes, need replacing at 100,000 mile intervals. But it depends upon the recommendations of the owner%26#039;s manual. READ the OWNER%26#039;S MANUAL!!! Many Toyota engines will not self destruct if the timing belt breaks. Most Honda%26#039;s will. Many VW/Audi engines will. You should read the manual 5-10 times to get acquainted with what the manufacturer wants.|||keep it serviced never need to|||chains are almost never changed or need to be changed unless you wreck. if it was a belt that would be different|||The weak link in a timing chain set up is the hydraulic tensioner. When the tensioner fails it allows excessive slack and the chain will wear through the timing chain cover housing if left unchecked. The noise will be a big indicator that this has failed. I have changed about 20 tensioners due to this type of failure, considering that is over 40 years, it really speaks well of timing chains. Typical life of a chain and tensioner varies with how good the preventative maintenance was during the life of the engine.|||If it%26#039;s a chain only replace it when the engine is overhauled.|||Change it according to the manufacturers suggested preventive maintenance schedule.

Need to change a timing chain on a 2003 cavalier. How do I go about that.?

Cavaliers Suck im so sorry. take the timing chain cover off. including all the puleys, and belts and everything. You should be able to see the timing belt/gears (gears i think) its a chevy. Its really hard to do it. Need much experience.|||Take it to Mr. Goodwrench and pay them a barrel of money. Do it yourself, according to the directions in Chiltons Auto Repair manual. Got tools? It is a lot of very hard work, especially if you have limited or no mechanical experience.|||pay no attention to the that other man behind the curtain! Real simple first is it a 2.2 or 2.4 if 2.2 very simple but you will need to go to autoparts and use their rent a tool program if you dont have tools way to much to type on here ifyou will email me engine type i will send you all you need to know to do that job.. kmp1171@att.net|||GM%26#039;s are disposable... Throw it away and get another one.

How often should you change your timing chain on a 2000 Mustang V6? I've got 94,000 miles on it if that helps?

Never, believe me the chain will last longer than the rest of the engine. You do not need to change the timing chain, if you had a 2000 Focus with a timing %26quot;belt%26quot;, then you would have it changed at 60K or so.|||The best possible piece of information on this question is in your owners manual. I have never owned a mustang but that does not really matter in this case. I have had a timing set break before because I waited til it gave me some trouble. The trouble I experienced turned out to be expensive. When the timing set broke it caused damage to the cylinder head and that had to be reworked also. Actually I believe it is around the 100k mark but I could be wrong. I would change it out based on what is stated in the owners manual...................cheap insurance.|||If you have been doing proper maintenance (oil changes) on you 3.8, you should never need to change the timing chain. The only time you would touch it is during a full engine rebuild, and generally only then because it%26#039;s convenient to do since you have the cam out anyway.|||you said it, %26quot;timing chain%26quot; not timing belt.. they are not a maintenance item, they are changed when the engine is overhauled, so don%26#039;t worry about it..|||Only when it has trouble starting because it will be sliping and it wount turn the crank

Do you need to change the timing chain on a BMW?

My understanding that BMW uses a chain as a timing belt rather than the usual rubber belt so I always thought that this shouldn%26#039;t ever be replaced during the life of an engine|||Timing chains (and their respective gears) have always been prone to some random breakage after long miles of use, just as the newer belt designs have been -- just not quite as quickly. The older/newer BMWs with their gear/chain configurations are no exception. Normally, they%26#039;ll last the life of the engine since they start to flake out at around 150K miles.





BTW: BMW used *belts* from around 1984 to 1995 on several of their models, not chains, and these were what we call %26quot;interference%26quot; engines.


.|||Unless BMW specifically recommends a change interval,I wouldn%26#039;t worry about it.Unless of course there is a problem like a very loose chain or worn sprocket(noise) on a high mileage engine or if it jumped time.

Should I change the timing belt/chain on my Toyota Camry?

I have a 2004 Toyota Camry and I just hit 100,000 miles. When should I change the timing belt/chain? My car is still running fine; just like the day I bought it.|||your maintenance schedule should tell you when to change belt but chains have no maintenance and should not be serviced until making noise, that usually doesnt happen until 200,000 miles, belts are a different story and need regular service, anywhere from 60,000 to 100,000 miles depending on motor, you need to know which type of engine you have.|||change it...it usually doesnt get bad slowly ...it snapps and leaves you on side of road..[usually at night in rain in bad %26quot;hood%26quot;]|||the owners manual probably recommended changing it around 80k.


You need to change it even if your car is running fine. I had one brake(my car ran fine up until it did) and it caused my pistons to hit and bend my valves. It cost about $1400 to fix and that was because a friend did the work for me. It is recommended you change them to keep that from happening to you.|||Your 2004 Camry has a maintenance-free timing chain if you have the 4 cylinder. You shouldn%26#039;t have to change it. If it%26#039;s the V6, you have a timing belt and it has to be replaced at 100K I believe. Newer timing belts tend to have longer intervals than the ones of the past. Also, if you have a V6 and the belt does break, it is a non-interference engine. That means that there%26#039;s enough clearance that if the valves stop moving (ie. timing belt breaking), the pistons one crash into them and cause damage while you%26#039;re driving. You just get your car towed to the shop, get a timing belt replacement service and you drive away.|||2003-2006 Model camries have 2 types. The 2.4i engine has a timing chain - which should never need replacing. The 3.3L V6 has a timing belt, and should be replaced every 100,000 miles - so if you have a 3.3L V6 camry you should get it worked on sometime soon.





The good news is you do not have an interfearing engine - so even if it does brake (yes you%26#039;ll be stranded) but at least your car will be repairable - unlike most hondas which DIE if their timing belts break.

How do I change the timing chain in my BMW 323i?

Could someone give me a link to a tutorial (preferably with pictures), please?





Thanks|||get a workshop manual|||dont do this yourself, its very complicated on a bmw not an easy job, and if you do it wrong it will bend your valves

2000 chevy cavalier timing chain replaced 2 times in 67,000 miles?

hey has anyone else had to change timing chain 2 times in under 70,000? this is my second time changing it first time was under 40,000 please help!!|||If you had it done twice in that time window it means you got stiffed the first time. If the dealer did it both times than you are a victim of flat rate repairs.|||Sorry dude,,,,,cavaliers use timing chains, not belts. They have never used belts. At least the standard run of the mill engine chevy makes. I own 3 cavaliers. They all have chains.

Report Abuse

|||I hate to tell you this, but the cavalier is a cheaply made car. It still should not do this. If it were to keep doing this, sometime it will possibly ruin the motor. I would unload this coffin on wheels. Find yourself a more reliable car.|||If you have the finances, take it in for a complete engine diagnostic, preferably to a mechanic you know/trust, or your mechanic may be able to recommend someone. It may be something as simple as a starter problem, but it never hurts to leave nothing to chance. You may have that car for awhile.|||no help with that but i have a gauge kit for that car if u are interested? do u have a tach in your car? mail me at mach_5_9@yahoo.com if u are interested|||Um, if you had a timing chain replaced you definitely got ripped off. Cavaliers have a timing belt. And don%26#039;t listen to TJ he probably drives a honda.... Cavaliers are fine cars. Mines got 130,000 miles on it, also a 2000. Never done the belt.|||Cavalier%26#039;s are not **** cars, I have an 03 and I love it. It%26#039;s hard to answer this question just take it in to be looked at. Do not listen when people say they are bad cars mine has no problems at all. I had a mitsubishi before this, THAT was a **** car|||It may have been faulty parts or you are driving it very hard.|||you may have a defective tensioner or a defective installer... if the tensioner requires hydraulic pressure to keep it tight you may have a restriction in the oiling system or possibly using the wrong weight oil

How often should I change the timing chain on a 1992 maxima ?

Your 3.0 Liter V6 is called an %26quot;interference%26quot; engine that may be severely damaged if the timing belt breaks. Therefore, you must change the belt every 60,000 miles as your Nissan owner%26#039;s manual instructs or you risk $$$ damage to the engine. Your water pump does not appear to be driven by the timing belt so you don%26#039;t have to change the water pump, but you should replace the timing belt tensioner and idler pulleys for sure if they%26#039;ve never been replaced. Total cost at a Nissan dealer is about $850.|||is it a belt or chain


belts every other year unless you put alot of miles on a year. chains further i would change chains every 4-5 years.|||Timing CHAIN?





The chain should not be replaced unless there is a problem with it. A BELT should be replaced when the mfr tells you, usually around 60,000-100,000 miles.

I have a 2004 Toyota Corolla Altis, is it using a timing belt or timing chain?

at what mileage do I need to change the timing chain?|||24MPH

What should I expect to pay to change the timing chain on my 98 Toyota corolla?

its a timing belt and the above answers are good to go off of, belt will be only $40-$60 but its alot of labor





The above answer is wrong. Corolla uses a timing chain for 98 on up. The real question is why do you need to change the timing chain?|||$500.|||probably 300-400...|||its a timing belt and the above answers are good to go off of, belt will be only $40-$60 but its alot of labor|||Not knowing the engine size I can only tell you that an L4 1.8 double over head cam is about $400. The labor time is 3.9 hours times the cost per hour,ad .2 tenths of an hour for A/C , and .4 tenths to remove the crank gear. the kit at the dealers is 169.25 for chain and tensions,and guides. Call an auto parts store to get there price for a timing kit. The repair shop will mark this price up for obvious reasons. This is an estimate and is intended as a guide, prices may differ. I hope this helps.In the future give us as much info as possible for a more accurate answer.|||The rate should be 250.00 to 350.00.

I just changed the timing chain on my car after setting it to top dead center it still will not start ?

should i use a timing light. the car is a 94 ford tempo and it sounds like it wants to start but won%26#039;t i need help bad plz some one give me a good answer thank you|||Top dead center can happen two ways. compression stroke or exhaust . You need compression and you find it is hold your finger over the plug hole until you fill the air blow your finger off.Then slowly get your piston all the way up to the top.Timing lights only works when the car is running.|||This is your ignition timing spec (for either 4 or 6 cylinders):


http://www.autozone.com/N,26200243/shopp鈥?/a>





Be sure to read the %26quot;note%26quot;.|||Please look at your specs to see if this is where it needs to be|||check timing mark. make shure no.1 cylinder is top dead on the timing mark for DTC. some engines can be out. on a 4 cylinder engine ,number 1 and 4 cylinders at DTC. valves %26quot;rocking%26quot; (1 opening 1 closing) on no.4 . distribute should be set to fire on no.1 |||why did you change the timing chain..





If it had already jumped a tooth.. or broke.. then the valves could be bent.. %26amp; therefore you have no compression..|||i bet the cam gear turned with you when you were putting the belt on. on the cam gear there should be a gage hole. put something like a drill bit in the hole to keep the gear from turning. then after you get the belt on you can take the bit out.

Is it impossible to change a timing chain of a toyota previa?

or not?|||it is a job i wish on no one it can be done with motor in van the motor kindof sets flat on this vehicle you will have to remove all kinds of things just for access it is a job for someone that has done it before. i have worked for toyota for 25 years and i would pay someone else to do it.ha ha the good thing i can tell you is those timing chains never wear out unless you got 250,000 miles if you can hear it rattle at idle it needs replacing if you are doing it just for maintance dont do it good luck|||It%26#039;s possible.|||Yes it is possible but it will be tricky considering the engine placement. If I%26#039;m not mistaken it has a belt and not a chain.|||you can do it but you have to pull the motor|||Its a Big Job - for the back yard mechanic. Need some specialty tools, so not sure if you want to tackle this project. But here are the steps you need to do it. Its a 12-13 hour job.... Good Luck p.s YOU DO NOT HAVE TO REMOVE THE MOTOR....





REMOVE CRANKSHAFT PULLEY





(a) Using SST. loosen the pulley bolt.


SST 09213-58012,09330-00021


(b) Remove the SST and pulley bolt.


(c) Using SST, remove the crankshaft pulley.


SST 09950-40010(09951-04020, 09952-04010, 09953-04030, 09954-04010, 09955-04050)





REMOVE LH ENGINE MOUNTING


(a) Remove the 2 bolts and LH mounting stay.


(b) Remove the 3 bolts and LH mounting.





REMOVE OIL PRESSURE SWITCH


REMOVE ENGINE OIL DIPSTICK





REMOVE NO.2 ENGINE HANGER


Remove the 4 bolts and No.2 engine hanger.





REMOVE VENTILATION CASE


Remove the 3 bolts, ventilation case and gasket.


REMOVE NO.1 OIL DIPSTICK GUIDE


Remove the No.1 oil dipstick guide and gasket.





REMOVE CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR


Remove the 2 bolts and crankshaft position sensor.





REMOVE CRANKCASE


(a) Remove the 16 bolts and 2 nuts.


(b) Using SST and a brass bar, separate the crankcase from the cylinder block.


SST 09032-00100





NOTICE: Be careful not to damage the crankcase flange.





REMOVE NO.2 OIL DIPSTICK GUIDE AND OIL BAFFLE PLATE


Remove the 2 bolts, 3 nuts, No.2 oil dipstick guide and baffle plate.





REMOVE OIL FILTER BRACKET WITH OIL FILTER


(a) Remove the 3 bolts and oil filter bracket.


(b) Remove the 0-ring from the timing chain case.





REMOVE TIMING CHAIN CASE





(a) Remove the 3 bolts.


(b) Remove the 12 bolts and 2 nuts.


(c) Using a plastic-faced hammer, tap the chain case and remove the timing chain case and 2 gaskets.





REMOVE NO.1 TIMING CHAIN AND CAMSHAFT TIMING GEAR





REMOVE CHAIN SLIPPER AND DAMPER


(a) Remove the bolt and chain slipper.


(b) Remove the 2 bolts and chain damper.





REMOVE OIL JET


Remove the bolt, oil jet and gasket.


REMOVE NO.2 TIMING CHAIN AND IDLE GEAR





(a) Loosen the 2 bolts.


(b) Tighten the bolt (A) while pushing the idle gear chain guide to the left with your finger.


(c) Remove the 2 bolts, and remove the chain and idle gear together.





REMOVE CRANKSHAFT TIMING GEAR HINT: If the gear cannot be removed by hand, use SST to remove it. SST 09950-40010(09951 -04010,09952-04010, 09953-04020, 09954-04010, 09955-04050)


TIMING CHAIN COMPONENTS INSPECTION








INSPECT TIMING CHAIN AND TIMING GEAR





(a) Measure the length with the chain fully stretched.





Maximum chain length:


No.1: 146.6 mm (5.772 in.) at 16 links


No.2: 140.5 mm (5.531 in.) at 18 links





If the length is greater than maximum, replace the chain.





HINT: Make the same measurements at 3 or more places selected at random.


(b) Wrap the chain around the timing gear.


(c) Using vernier calipers, measure the timing gear diameter with the chain.





NOTICE: Vernier calipers must contact the chain rollers for measuring.





Minimum gear diameter (w/chain):


Crankshaft timing gear for No.1 timing chain: 59.4 mm (2.339 in.)


Crankshaft timing gear for No.2 timing chain: 69.9 mm (2.752 in.)


Camshaft timing gear: 113.8 mm (4.480 in.)


Idle gear: 57.0 mm (2.244 in.)





If the diameter is less than minimum, replace the chain and gear.





INSPECT CHAIN DAMPER AND SLIPPER


Measure the damper and slipper and damper wears.


Maximum wear: 1.0 mm (0.039 in.)





If the wear is greater than maximum, replace the damper and/or slipper.





INSPECT IDLE GEAR


Check that the idle gear operation is not rough or noisy.


If necessary. replace the idle gear.


TIMING CHAIN INSTALLATION





INSTALL CRANKSHAFT TIMING GEAR


(a) Turn the crankshaft until the shaft key is on the top.


(b) Slide the gear over the key on the crankshaft.


HINT: If the gear is difficult to install by hand, install it using SST. (SST 09608-06041)





INSTALL NO.2 TIMING CHAIN AND IDLE GEAR





(a) Place the No.2 timing chain on the idle gear.


(b) Place the No.2 timing chain on the crankshaft gear.


(c) Install and torque the 2 bolts.


Torque: 20 N.m (200 kgf.cm, 14 ft.lbf)


(d) Loosen the bolt (A) so that the chain guide presses against the chain.


(e) Check that the spring is operating normally against the chain guide by pressing on the chain with your finger and then releasing your finger.


(f) With the chain guide pressing against the chain, torque the bolts to hold the chain guide in place.


Torque: 20 N.m (200 kgf.cm, 14 ft.lbf)





INSTALL OIL JET


Install a new gasket and the oil jet with the bolt. Torque: 18 N.m (185 kgf.cm, 13 ft.lbf)


INSTALL CHAIN DAMPER AND SLIPPER


(a) Install the chain damper with the 2 bolts.


Torque: 18 N.m (185 kgf.cm, 13 ft.lbf)


(b) Install the chain slipper with the bolt.


Torque: 27 N.m (270 kgf.cm, 20 ft.lbf)





PLACE NO.1 TIMING CHAIN AND CAMSHAFT TIMING GEAR


(a) Place the timing chain on the camshaft timing gear so that the timing mark is between 2 bright chain links.


(b) Place the timing chain on the crankshaft timing gear with the single bright link indicated in the illustration aligned with the timing mark on the crankshaft timing gear.


(c) Make sure the chain is positioned between the damper and slipper.


(d) Turn the camshaft timing gear counterclockwise to take the slack out of the chain.


(e) Tie the timing chain with a cord as shown in the illustration and make sure it doesn%26#039;t come loose.





INSTALL TIMING CHAIN CASE


(a) Clean the gasket surface.


(b) Install 2 gaskets over the dowels.


(c) Slide on the chain case over the dowels.


(d) Install the bolts and nuts as shown and torque them.


Torque:





(A): 20 N.m (200 kgf.cm, 14 ft.lbf)


(B): 28 N.m (290 kgf.cm. 21 ft.lbf)


(C): 44 N.m (440 kgf.cm, 32 ft.lbf)





(e) Install and torque the 3 bolts.


Torque: 18 N.m (185 kgf.cm, 13 ft.lbf)





INSTALL OIL FILTER BRACKET WITH OIL FILTER


(a) Place a new 0-ring into the groove of the timing chain case.


(b) Install the oil filter bracket with the 3 bolts.


Torque: 20 N.m (200 kgf.cm, 14 ft.lbf)





INSTALL BAFFLE PLATE AND NO.2 OIL DIPSTICK GUIDE


(a) Install the baffle plate with the 3 nuts.


Torque: 5 N.m (50 kgf.cm, 43 in.lbf)


(b) Install the No.2 oil dipstick guide with the 2 bolts.


Torque: 18 N.m (185 kgf.cm, 13 ft.lbf)





INSTALL CRANKCASE


(a) Remove any old packing material and be careful not to drop any oil on the contacting surfaces of the crankcase and cylinder block.





Using a razor blade an gasket scraper, remove all the packing (FIPG) material from the gasket surfaces.


Thoroughly clean all components to remove all the loose material.


Clean both sealing surfaces with a non-residue solvent.


NOTICE: Do not use a solvent which will affect the painted surfaces.





(b) Apply seal packing to the joint part of the cylinde block and timing chain case, cylinder block and rear oil seal retainer.


Seal packing: Part No.08826-00080 or equivalent





(c) Apply seal packing to the crankcase as shown in the illustration.


Seal packing: Part No.08826-00080 or equivalent





Install a nozzle that has been cut to a 3-4 mm (0.12-0.16 in.) opening.


HINT: Avoid applying an excess amount to the surface. Be especially careful near oil passages.





Parts must be assembled within 5 minutes of application. Otherwise. the material must be removed and re-applied.


Immediately remove the nozzle from tube and reinstall the cap.


(f) Install the crankcase over the studs on the block with the 16 bolts and 2 nuts. Torque the bolts and nuts.


Torque: 12.5 N.m (130 kgf.cm, 9 ft.lbf)





INSTALL CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR Torque: 8.5 N.m (85 kgf.cm, 74 in.lbf)


INSTALL VENTILATION CASE


(a) Install a new gasket on the ventilation case.


(b) Install the ventilation case to the crankcase with the 3 bolts.


Torque: 7.5 N.m (80 kgf.cm, 69 in.lbf)





NOTICE: Tighten the bolt (A) last out of the 3 bolts.





INSTALL NO.1 OIL DIPSTICK GUIDE


Install a new gasket and No.1 oil dipstick guide. Torque: 29 N.m (300 kgf.cm, 22 ft.lbf)





INSTALL NO.2 ENGINE HANGER


Install the No.2 engine hanger with the 4 bolts. Torque:


Ventilation side: 7.5 N.m (80 kgf.cm, 69 in.lbf)


Cylinder block side: 37 N.m (380 kgf.cm. 27 ft.lbf)





INSTALL ENGINE OIL DIPSTICK


INSTALL OIL PRESSURE SWITCH


(a) Clean the threads of adhesive and foreign material.


(b) Apply adhesive to 2 or 3 threads of the switch end.


Adhesive: Part No.08833-00080, adhesive 1344, THREE BOND 1344, LOCTITE 242 or equivalent


(c) Install the oil pressure switch.


Torque: 15 N.m (150 kgf.cm, 11 ft.lbf)





INSTALL LH ENGINE MOUNTING


(a) Install the LH engine mounting with the 3 bolts.


Torque: 41 N.m (420 kgf.cm, 30 ft.lbf)


(b) Install the LH mounting stay with the 2 bolts.


Torque: 37 N.m (380 kgf.cm, 27 ft.lbf)





INSTALL CRANKSHAFT PULLEY





(a) Install crankshaft pulley to the crankshaft with the spline teeth of the crankshaft pulley engaged with the large teeth of the oil pump.


(b) Rotate the crankshaft pulley to left and right and check that the key groove of the crankshaft pulley correctly fits the crankshaft key.


(c) Install the crankshaft pulley bolt.





(d) Using SST. torque the bolt.


SST 09213-58012.09330-00021


Torque: 260 N.m (2,650 kgf.cm, 192 ft.lbf)|||it isn%26#039;t impossible you just have to to get i new one like for pep boys,auto zone or you get one from a juck yard

How do you change the Timing Chain on a 1994 Pontiac Grand Am GT?

My car stopped working because of this and now my boyfriend is going to fix it, but isn%26#039;t sure how to. Help please! I need this car fixed in about 2-3 weeks..|||Raise and support the front of the vehicle. Using the appropriate sockets, remove the right front wheel and inner fender shield. Remove the lower splash shield and the accessory drive belts. Remove the power-steering pump, but leave the lines connected. Move the power-steering pump out of the way. Remove the power-steering pump bracket and belt tensioner. Remove the timing belt covers and the crankshaft pulley bolt and pulley.





Turn the crankshaft clockwise until the timing mark on the crank sprocket lines up with the mark on the block. Loosen the water-pump bolts. Turn the pump counterclockwise to release the tension. Remove the timing belt.





Double-check the timing marks to make sure they are aligned. The crankshaft sprocket mark should be lined up with the mark on the block, and the camshaft sprocket mark should be straight up and aligned with the mark on the rear timing belt cover.





Install the timing belt starting on the right side and work counterclockwise, keeping the tension on the non-tensioned side.





Turn the water pump clockwise until the tensioner arm makes contact with the high-torque stop. Turn the crankshaft two turns clockwise and line up the timing marks again. Turn the water pump counterclockwise until the holes in the pointer line up. Torque the water pump bolts to 18 foot-pounds of torque.





Install all components in reverse order of removal and torque the crankshaft pulley bolt to 20 foot-pounds of torque.|||Ha.





Well my bfs car his timing chain is getting ready to break..


you will need the whole kit not just the chain just bc where is so old..





And the timing chain is inside the motor basically he will have to take the motor apart to get to it..





Its very pricey to get a mechanic to do it..|||napa or other parts store can help with a chilton manual for that model car be sure to change the gears and chain as a set.

How do you change a timing chain on a 98 altima?

my timing chain broke and i need to know how to change it on my 1998 nissan altima|||The %26#039;98 Nissan 2.4L has two timing chains, an upper and lower one. Here is a photo of the upper chain: http://www.rockauto.com/ref/BeckArnley/D鈥?/a>





Both chains cost around $25 each. The chain likely broke with the engine running so you will need the repair manual to know how to install the chain and have the engine timing set correctly.





There is a Haynes repair manual available for the %26#039;98 Altima, part number 72015.|||i take it to Gus, my mechanic|||HI! i%26#039;d first suggest that you buy the manual (chilton%26#039;s or hayne%26#039;s) from your local parts store and read it. it will have most of the info about that...it%26#039;s a highly complicated procedure and worth too much (your engine) to type here...without being at your location to help you.|||I forget if the 2.4 dohc was an interference engine. Take it to your mechanic and tell him your chain broke. It%26#039;s an extensive job on any car but it may be just a chain, or you needing a new engine. If the chain broke on an interference engine, your valves may have made contact with your pistons resulting in bent valves, cracked valves, broken piston, etc.

How often do you change a Timing Chain on a Toyota Corolla 1998?

Do you have to? or do you only change it if you see evidence of malfunction?|||It is timing belt and not timing chain, don%26#039;t mix up!





For corolla, good to replace between 80,000 to 100,000 km and to replace the water pump too.





You don%26#039;t take risk on a timing belt....once it breaks...it a major repair...change on schedule Bro....|||you sure? I thought all vvti 1zzfes had chains...


http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=167258

Report Abuse

|||Changing a timing belt is a major deal.Especially if you%26#039;ve never done it. The head or heads have to come off,which means new head gaskets and maybe new head bolts. Then both intake and exhaust gaskets.Get a book at your local auto parts store and it will explain it step by step.They can also tell you what it will cost.If the car still runs it doesn%26#039;t have a broken belt.If it did break while it was running you may have bent a valve or even damaged a piston.|||Unless there is a problem there is no need to change it. Keep the oil changed and it should last as long as the engine does. Check the tensioner for the timing chain for leaks from time to time, you should be fine.|||Shuld say in your owners manual. Usually 60,000 miles . And its a belt not a chain, and no the heads and manifolds do not need to be removed. have a look here how to do it.http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/090鈥?/a>|||you have to change the timing belt every 100,000km or less. Lesser since you have to consider the idle time wherein your engine is running but your car is stationary like during traffic. Otherwise there is a risk for broken belt that will further damage your engine. Broken timing belt will have a risk of bent intake/exhaust valves and damage piston which is very expensive to replace.|||I%26#039;m 99% sure your car has a timing BELT which should be changed every 60k.|||You are in luck!!! The 1998 Corolla has a timing chain so you never need to replace it. If you%26#039;re having issues, it won%26#039;t be a timing belt.|||If it ain%26#039;t broke


Don%26#039;t fix it

Mileage Drop in Chevy Traverse after Faulty Timing Chain was Replaced?

I recently had the timing chain changed in my Chevy Traverse. It has 32000 miles. After it was changed my mileage dropped from an average of 20 mpg to 15 mpg as calculated by the on board information system. The service technician at the dealer says there is nothing wrong with the vehicle and there is no relationship between the mileage drop and the timing chain replacement. Although the drop was immediate after the replacement. I feel as if it is now harder to accelerate since the timing chain was replaced. Any help would be appreciated.|||Get a compression check to see if there%26#039;s valve damage. If it%26#039;s OK you%26#039;ll need to get the valve timing checked. They might have gotten it a notch off. Don%26#039;t use the guy who did the original job.|||The timing chain is a vitally important part and has to be replaced with great care. Any movement of the vehicle while in gear between removal of the old and replacement of the new will result in the timing of the engine being wrong, thus affecting miles per gallon. The timing chain is fitted around moving cogwheels which have permanent marks to ensure correct installation. I would suggest you approach an independent garage and ask them to look at it. To run the engine badly timed will damage it.|||I%26#039;m sure anyone with a timing light can let you know if the timing chain is correct. My guess is he missed a cog or two.


I suggest you give him a chance to make it right or you are taking it to another place and if it is the timing chain install, you will take him to small claims court.

Changing a timing chain on a 1.9 saturn with 2 twin overhead cams?

1995 saturn|||those used the the single row chain, like the single cam eng. essentially too weak for the job. most go out by 60k miles. dealer has the whole kit in stock. was very common a few years back.|||Yes. Eventually, you have to change it.

Is it complicated to change the timing chain on a 97 sunfire?

is the timing chain inside the motor? does it replace the serpentine belt? what will need to be taken apart in order to replace it? thanks|||Yes, its inside, no it doesnt replace anything else, and it%26#039;s too complicated for your average bunny rabbit to try alone. Hop on down the bunny trail to your local mechanic, and hand over some cabbage.|||depends on if its an inline 4 cyl or a v6.the 4 cyl.is not for beginners.i just did the dual overhead cam, what a pos. been better to pull the engine.as for location, yes its inside of the engine. the 4 cylinder is basically completely tore down. it sucks, ill never do another one inside the car.|||Yes the timing chain is inside the motor, no it does not replace the serpentine belt, and Usually the drive belt, water pump, and drive belt Accessories. It is no job for a novice mechanic.

How to change a timing chain on a 2000 Chevy Cavalier

The car has a 100,000 miles on it, it runs decent but makes a tinging/slight grinding noise I%26#039;ve been told by a mechanic friend is the timing chain, he told me I should replace it soon because this type of engine is not a interference engine.





I like to work on my car myself, and recently replaced a timing belt on my 94 camry (with help of course) not too long ago, I have a few parts to this question:





A: How much harder is a timing CHAIN to replace as apposed to a BELT.





B. How much time should I allot myself before taking on the project.





C. My mechanic friend offered to fix it for around 300.00, would be it better to just let him fix it and spend the money or get a Hanes manual, the proper tools and gain the experience for future use?





|||A. The chain is actualy easier in most cases.


B. I would allow a weekend for a first timer, working cautiously and with plenty of read the book breaks.


C. By the time you buy the parts, and few tools you will need you would in reality not save much. Since this is a seldom needed repair I would recommend having the friend do it, and drink a glass of wine.|||it is harder to change a chain then a belt. if you have a chain, then i will tell you how to do it. first, get everything out of your way, pull the crank pully,pull the damper with a puller, take off the timing cover,put the crank to where the dot on the gear is at 12 oclock, take off the chain and change both the crank and cam gear. before you put the cam gear on, put the chain on the crank gear, then the cam gear. both of the gears should be pointing at 6 and 12 oclock, there,s dots on both gears. after you get the gears and chain on, clean the timing cover up and change the timing seal, put a new timing cover gasket on and bolt it back up, put everything back on, start your car, hook up a timing light and mark it on the timing scale to where it times at, turn the distributor to where the mark is at, and tighten the distributor.|||mechanic friend is the timing chain, he told me I should replace it soon because this type of engine is not a interference engine.





Timing CHAINS are not changed just because of mileage. Timing BELTS are changed just because of mileage.





Recheck to find if you have a belt or chain. If you have a chain, then that is NOT the problem / source of the noise.


===


If you do NOT have interference design, then you will NOT suffer engine damage if it broke (ever). Only cars with interference design are changed out as preventive maintenance.





http://autorepair.about.com/cs/doityours鈥?/a>





If you decide you still want new chain, get your mechanic to do it. It is not for the beginner mechanic.








Good Luck....

How do i change a timing chain on a '90 honda civic ex?

the timing chain is in place i just need to know how to line up the marks. anyone with info please let me know. thanks!|||The last time I changed a timing belt on a civic it dint have a chain,that was a1982 and I would suggest you do it the same way.Go to a car parts store and invest about 20 dollars and get you a manual for your civic,it will give you all the steps and save you a lot of aggravation and save you lots of money if you have any more projects.Good luck on your repairs.|||go to autozone.com, they have repair manual on civics. good luck!!!!|||There is a tool you are supposed to use to line up with the crank shaft. I haven%26#039;t done it myself, all I know is that if you do it wrong your idling will vary drastically and engine will stall.|||I just put a timing belt on my %26#039;94 Civic DX 1.5L last week. There is a small mark on the crank pulley in the 1 or 2:00 position that lines up to an arrow cast in the block...it is hard to see because it is behind the belt on the right side. When that is lined up there are three ways to orientate the marks on the camshaft depending on what engine you have. Once the belt is on turn the engine two revolutions and recheck the marks to make sure they are still lined up. I bought my Haynes manual off of eBay for cheaper than the parts store.|||Before taking the belt out, align the Crankshaft pulley at TDC (small visible mark would be on the gear and engine block) When you align this point, you will see another mark on the cam pulley. The ratio between cam and crank is 1:2. Every 2 full rotation of the crank, the cam spins once. Which means if you align the crank, the cam can be bottom dead center or top dead center. If it is at BDC, you just need to turn the crank one more time to bring the cam to TDC.





I would draw a line between the Belt, and cam pulley.


Draw another line between the belt and the crank pulley.


Then transfer the markings to the new belt and reinstall in the same position to verify.

When do you change the timing chain in a renualt modus? after how many kms or miles?

I have just bought a used renualt modus. I would like to know when is the best time to have a timing chain replaced?|||this car is fitted with a cam belt, not a chain. The recommended interval is 72,000 miles or when the car is 5 years old. Which ever comes first !|||If you can detect a rattle from the chain it may be the tensioner or the chain may be stretched In any case they are running in oil so provided that the oil is changed regularly you should have no problem|||no specific mileage given for timing chain as they run lubricated all the time they tend to last longer than belts a chain could go on for 200,000 miles

How to change timing chain on a 3800 v6 on a 1988 nightyeight?

not getting any power , car is back firing used harmonic balance placed on car recent|||get yourself a car repair manual at any car parts store. Haynes or Chilton etc They are inexpensive and tell you everything you need to know to work on your car.|||Remove everything, replace chain while lining up the marks on the gears, make sure it starts before you reassemble and put it all back together.

How to change timing chain on a Chevy S-10?

I am mechanically minded but I am not sure how to change this out. Is there a website with a diagram? Litlle Help would go along way. THANKS!!!|||Sane and tirespoke have given you some pretty good general advice, but I%26#039;m guessing you%26#039;re looking for more detailed advice (you know, like %26quot;disconnect your negative battery cable%26quot; before you start, so you don%26#039;t fry all your wiring because you short circuit some wires), and something specific to your vehicle, so you won%26#039;t be wondering what all that stuff is under your cam gear on a %26#039;95 or later.(It%26#039;s for the balance shaft).





Autozone.com has free repair guides that are pretty much the same as a Chilton%26#039;s. They should have one for your vehicle since it%26#039;s old enough to need a timing chain. Just go there and register, enter the info into the vehicle profile, click %26quot;repair info%26quot; and %26quot;view repair guides%26quot;. Then the link for Engine %26amp; Engine Overhaul.





From there you%26#039;ll see links for the Alternator under Engine Electrical , and most of the other stuff under Engine Mechanical. Go there first, then click Timing Chain And Gears, and whenever it says %26quot;remove this%26quot; or remove that%26quot; in the instructions for that, backtrack to the instructions for that part through the links in the box on the left, which is on every page.|||Its a fairly detailed process. A Chiltons manual would be very helpful in giving step by step instruction.





Its not an easy task in that its a bit time consuming. You need to remove the coolant, radiator, hoses, fan, water pump, and anything else that%26#039;s blocking you from removing the timing chain cover. You%26#039;ll need a damper puller to get to the lower part. Then you have to remove the crank sprocket to get the old chain off. You%26#039;ll need to get the crank and cam lined up time wise with the marks on each, then install the new chain making sure the marks are properly aligned. Then reassemble everything.|||Go to you tube, type in the info you want and there will be videos telling you how to do it.|||pull off front dress of engine (water pump, pulleys, harmonic balancer, etc) to get access to the timing cover.





pull off the timing cover and the timing chain will be staring you in the face. put harmonic balancer bolt in and rotate crankshaft using old timing set and distributor cap off. when distributor is pointing to #1 spark plug the dots on the gears should either line up or be very close.





pull off old timing set and put new one on. finish adjusting them so both gear dots are pointing to each other and distributor should be relatively close to #1 position. put timing cover back on with new gaskets. put front dress back on (put a new water pump on while you have it apart).





loosen distributor bolt and crank engine up. might need to rotate the distributor a little. pull the spout connector out or remove the vacuum advance line and set base timing to factory spec. hook the vac advance or spout back up and take it for a drive.

Changing the timing chain procedure?

I need the detailed procedure involved to remove and install the timing chain for a 2000 honda accord dx 4 cylider motor|||Goto an auto parts store and get a manual like Chiltons or the like. I would also get someone whos mechanically inclined to help you. Changing a timing belt is major work, not like replacing an accessory belt or even changing the oil. Your engine is an interference engine which means if you botch the install you will bend valves resulting in an expensive repair...ask me how I know ha,

Changed Timing Chain Now There Is A Noise?

Hi.





My mechanic has had my car for some time.. BMW 316ti ES.





He changed the timing chain as the plastic guide has snapped.. now there is a noise coming from the engine..





what problem do you think this could be. |||Could be a bent valve or just the timing chain rubbing on the timing chain cover. Kinda need to hear it!|||replace the guide and check the tension of the chain

What is a decent price for changing both timing chains on a 1998 ford explorer?

Would it be better to have the engine replaced or rebuilt (since I was quoted $3200.00 for changing the chains) ?|||since the 5.0 was offered that year, it might make more sense to switch it over to a 5.0 V8... but then you might find another one cheaper then doing either way..|||Your 4.0L actually has 4 chains, three in front and one in the back. If the chains have slipped or broken then chances are VERY good that some valve damage has also occurred. We have learned over the years to just quote engine replacement right from the start. Although the labor times are nice for repair we found the internal damages(no matter how slight) to be common enough that it is better for the customer and the shop to just go with a repl. longblock.You then have a warranty of at least 12 mos./12,000 mi. parts and labor if any problems occur depending on which repl. engine you opt to go with.

How do i change the timing chain on a 82 honda goldwing 1100?

The timing chain has been changed but not in the right order so I need to do it again. I got the bike for a song but it is not put togather right.|||Do not rely on any answers that you get here.


A one tooth, mistaken answer, from a backyard, mechanic wannabe and your engine is destroyed.


Then good luck trying to locate parts for that engine.


Please invest in a service manual.


Purchase one before they go out of print -


http://www.motocom.com/motorcycles/|||There are two timing (cam) belts under the covers in front of the engine. Changing or adjusting them is not difficult to do, but you should have a shop manual.





It%26#039;s important that the crankshaft and camshafts are in the right position, otherwise you%26#039;ll bend valves and damage pistons.

When do I need to change my timing chain?

I have a 05 ford taures and wanted to know when to change the timing chain?|||Assuming you have the 3.0L OHV engine (96% of %26#039;05 Taurus%26#039;s do), then you should change it when it has enough slack to effect driveability. It is not a scheduled maintenance item. Here%26#039;s a simple test for the type of chain setup on these engines, which do NOT use a tensioner.





http://www.misterfixit.com/chanslop.htm





If you have the DOHC, then I guess you should have said so.





Oops, I seem to have offended someone by pointing out the facts. LOL|||If it%26#039;s a chain - never.


If it%26#039;s a belt - every 60,000 miles.|||You may need to change your chain but not for many miles. Chains will eventually stretch out but the tensioner should adjust for the slack. So in your case I don%26#039;t see why you would need to change it yet unless you have A LOT of miles on your car.|||Sorry for the metric





80,000-100,000km is a usual guide for a belt. Belts crack and wear with age as they are rubber.





Chains - A chain uses a tensioner (operated by oil pressure) to keep the chain firm. Guide rails and sprockets can wear if the servicing is not regular but the chain will stretch over time but will last years longer than a belt.

How to change a timing chain dodge raider?

Doing a head change on a 1987 dodge raider 2.6L 4cyl. I%26#039;m new to this kind of mechanics. I have the replament head and timing chain. Just need to know how to do it.|||You need to get a book. But hey a Mechanic cost me $218 to change one,I bought the parts. Not bad. Dealer wanted a $1000.

Changing a timing chain on a 1.9 Saturn DOHC, is this eaisly done with motor in car?

what surprises am I to find, will I be able to read all timing marks with engine still in car? To see bottom timing mark on crank will I need a mirror or can this be seen? thanks..|||YOU DON%26#039;T NEED A MIRROR AND YOU DON%26#039;T NEED TO TAKE OUT THE RADIATOR. RAISE THE SIDE OF THE VEHICLE AND TAKE THE WHEEL OFF, THEN THE SPLASH SHIELD. GO IN THAT WAY. GO TO YOU SATURN DEALERSHIP, BUY THE CHAIN KIT. NOT THE CHAIN, BUT THE CHAIN KIT. IT WILL HAVE WHAT YOU NEED FOR PARTS. IF YOU DON%26#039;T GET THE KIT YOU WILL BE BACK IN IT IN A MONTH CHANGING OUT DAMPNERS. WHILE YOU ARE THERE SPENDING $$$ ASK THEM TO PRINT OUT THE PIC OF THE MARKS FOR YOU, OR COPY THEM FROM THEIR BOOK. ONLY AN IDIOT PARTS GUY WOULD SAY NO. TRUST ME HE WANTS THE SALE AND HE WOULD BE HAPPY TO DO IT FOR YOU. YOU WILL ALSO NEED A HARMONIC BALANCER PULLER TO DO THE JOB. GOOD LUCK.





--------------------------------------鈥?br>

DO THIS:





Engine Front Cover Replacement (DOHC)


Tools Required


鈥? SA9103E Regulator Valve Remover/Replacer





鈥? SA9104E Front Crank Seal Replacer

















Clean the front cover, cylinder block and oil pan mating surfaces:


Notice: If excessive RTV is applied, or oil builds up in the blind holes, the casting will crack when the bolts are installed. Make sure all oil gallery openings and the oil pan are covered with a shop towel to prevent debris entry.





RTV is removed from aluminum surfaces using scraper, plastic or wood, Scotch-Brite庐 Pads, and disk (3M庐 Clean-N Strip 2 in D x 1/2 in W x 1/4 in center hole).


The front cover, cylinder head and block bolt holes must be cleaned with a 3/16 in drill and tap handle. The oil drain back hole must also be free of RTV. The front cover non tapped holes can be cleaned with 3/8 in drill.


Important: Do not use petroleum cleaners such as mineral spirits, they leave a film onto which RTV will not stick.








After all RTV is removed, clean the surfaces with a chlorinated solvent, such as carburetor spray cleaner, brake clean, or alcohol.














Important: If removed, the oil pump must be packed with petroleum jelly for printing.








Install the oil pressure regulator and pump cover if removed. Install the regulator using the SA9103E and a hammer. The pump should be installed with the chamfer toward the front oil seal.





Tighten


Tighten the oil pump cover-to-front cover to 11 N路m (8 lb ft).





If the front seal was removed, use the SA9104E service tool to install a new seal. Never tap on the seal or seal installer with a hammer.


Install the new oil pressure and suction seals into their respective cavities in the cylinder block.


Important: The front cover, oil seal drain back hole, and passage way must be kept free of RTV.








Important: Extra RTV is required at oil pan, cylinder head to block, cylinder head and cam cover T-joints to make sure gaps are filled.








Apply a 4 mm (0.158 in) bead, refer to the RTV Section on the front of the oil pan and a 2 mm (0.079 in) bead on the front cover. Apply RTV around the front cover top, center bolt hole. Install the cover immediately.











Install the front crank seal using the SA9104E . The tool aligns the generator pump during front cover installation.











Install the front cover assembly fasteners.





Tighten





鈥? Tighten the front cover perimeter bolts to 30 N路m (22 lb ft).





鈥? Tighten the front cover lower center bolt (number 14) to 10 N路m (89 lb in).





Install the 4 oil pan fasteners.





Tighten


Tighten the oil pan-to-block 9 N路m (80 lb in).





Notice: After the front cover is installed, 6-12 squirts of oil can be pumped through the front oil seal drain back hole to make sure it is not plugged to prevent front seal damage.


























Important: Inspect the cam cover isolators for cracks. Replace the isolators if deterioration exists.








Apply RTV across the cylinder head and front cover %26quot;T%26quot; joints, refer to %26quot;RTV%26quot; procedures in General Information. The cam cover gasket can be reused if not damaged.











Install the cam cover assembly and tighten the fasteners uniformly.





Tighten


Tighten the camshaft cover-to-head (LL0) to 10 N路m (89 lb in).

















Install water pump pulley, if removed.





Tighten


Tighten the water pump pulley-to-water pump hub 25 N路m (19 lb ft).





Important: Install a thin film of RTV sealant Saturn P/N 21006236 between the damper/pulley assembly flange and washer only. The washer and bolt head flange are designed to prevent oil leakage and do not require RTV sealant.








Important: Hold the damper with a strap wrench or use a 3/4 in square x 12 in long piece of wood wedged between the damper spoke and rear, lower side of cover when torquing the bolt.








Install the crankshaft vibration damper/pulley assembly and retaining bolt.





Tighten


Tighten the crankshaft vibration damper/pulley-to-crankshaft to 215 N路m (159 lb ft).





Install the intake upper manifold support brace bolt located next to generator.





Tighten


Tighten the intake manifold brace-to-block (LL0) to 10 N路m (89 lb in).





Drain the engine oil and change the filter. Install the drain plug.





Tighten


Tighten the oil pan drain plug to 37 N路m (27 lb ft).





Verify the gap on all spark plugs. Install the spark plugs.





Tighten


Tighten the spark plug-to-head to 27 N路m (20 lb ft).





Important: Install the accessory drive belt idler pulley, if removed.








Install the belt tensioner.





Tighten





鈥? Tighten the belt tensioner-to-block to 30 N路m (22 lb ft).





鈥? Tighten the belt tensioner-to-front cover to 27 N路m (20 lb ft).





Install generator attachment bolts/nut (both), if removed.





Tighten


Tighten the generator bolts to 32 N路m (24 lb ft).





Install power steering pump assembly and brackets.





Tighten





鈥? Tighten the power steering pump bracket-to-block to 30 N路m (22 lb ft).





鈥? Tighten the power steering pump brace-to-block to 30 N路m (22 lb ft).





Install A/C compressor and bolts.





Tighten





鈥? Tighten the A/C compressor brackets-to-head/block to 25 N路m (19 lb ft).





鈥? Tighten the A/C compressor-to-front bracket to 54 N路m (40 lb ft).





鈥? Tighten the A/C compressor-to-rear bracket to 30 N路m (22 lb ft).

















Install the accessory drive belt. Ensure that the belt is properly aligned on the pulleys.


Notice: To prevent engine front cover and mount damage, the three engine mount to engine front cover nuts must be tightened down uniformly.





Install the 2 mount to midrail bracket nuts first. Next, install the 3 front upper mount to engine front cover nuts. Remove the block of wood from under the torque strut after the upper mount assembly is installed.





Tighten





鈥? Tighten the upper engine mount-to-front cover to 50 N路m (37 lb ft).





鈥? Tighten the upper engine mount-to-front rail bracket to 50 N路m (37 lb ft).





Install splash shield and wheel.





Tighten


Tighten the wheel nuts to 140 N路m (103 lb ft).





Install the following sensors and components:


- The oxygen sensor





Tighten


Tighten the oxygen sensor to 45 N路m (33 lb ft).








- The engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor





Tighten


Tighten the coolant temperature sensor to 8 N路m (71 lb in).








- Throttle body assembly, if removed





Tighten


Tighten the throttle body-to-air intake manifold (LL0) to 12 N路m (9 lb ft).








- The starter motor to block, if removed





Tighten


Tighten the starter motor-to-block to 37 N路m (27 lb ft).








- The starter support bracket to axle shaft, if removed





Tighten


Tighten the starter support bracket-to axle shaft bracket to 30 N路m (22 lb ft).








- The EVAP canister purge





Tighten


Tighten the canister purge solenoid-to-block to 22 N路m (16 lb ft).








- The EGR valve





Tighten


Tighten the EGR valve-to-head 25 N路m (19 lb ft).








Install the following sensors and electrical harness connectors and vacuum hoses.


Electrical Connectors:


鈥? Grounds, if disconnected





鈥? Generator





鈥? Oxygen sensor





鈥? Starter





鈥? Coolant temperature sensor





鈥? A/C compressor





鈥? Idle air control (IAC)





鈥? Throttle position (TP) sensor





鈥? EGR valve





鈥? Injectors





Vacuum Hoses:


鈥? EVAP canister purge





鈥? Throttle body





鈥? PCV





鈥? Fresh air





鈥? Brake booster

















Install the accelerator cable to the bracket and attach the throttle cable. Ensure the throttle cable is properly routed and not binding.


Install the coolant hoses.


- Upper radiator





- Heater





- Deareation hose at rear side of intake manifold





Notice: Replace plastic fuel retainer whenever the fuel supply is disconnected at the fuel rail. Install the new retainer into the female cavity of the connection. Care must be taken to assure that the locking tab is centered in the window of the female cavity. Firmly press the female connection onto the male end until a click is heard, then pull back to confirm engagement. Pinched, kinked, or damaged fuel lines must be replaced.





Important: The service retainers are different in color from the original equipment retainers. The service fuel feed line retainers are clear in color.








Lubricate with clean engine oil the male fuel feed line. Attach the fuel feed line and pull back to confirm engagement.


Install the fuel line clip to the intake manifold stud.





Tighten


Tighten the fuel line retainer clip to 4 N路m (35 lb in).





Install the intake manifold bracket and attach the fuel supply line.





Tighten





鈥? Tighten the support bracket-to-intake manifold (LL0) to 10 N路m (89 lb in).





鈥? Tighten the support bracket-to-intermediate shaft support bracket (LL0) to 30 N路m (22 lb ft).





Install the air intake resonator, tube, filter cover and clamps. Refer to Induction section of this service manual.


Connect the battery cables, positive cable first.





Tighten


Tighten the battery terminal bolts to 17 N路m (13 lb ft).





Install the oil pan drain plug and fill engine with new oil.





Tighten


Tighten the oil pan drain plug to 37 N路m (27 lb ft).





Install the cylinder block coolant drain plugs and close the radiator drain.





Tighten


Tighten the coolant drain-to-plug/block 30 N路m (22 lb ft).





Important: The vehicle must be level when filling with coolant.








Fill with coolant. Use only DEX-COOL鈩?ethylene glycol-based antifreeze.


Prime the fuel system.


Cycle the ignition on for 5 seconds and then off for 10 seconds.


Repeat step 31.1 twice.


Crank engine until it start, maximum starter motor cranking time is 20 seconds.


Start the engine and check for leaks.


Important: Allow the engine to idle for 3-5 minutes. If lifters are noisy or cylinders are misfiring, warm the engine up at a low RPM, less than 2,000. After the coolant temperature has reached approximately 85掳C (185掳F), cycle the engine RPM from idle to 3,000 for approximately 10 minutes or drive the vehicle 5 miles to purge the air. If the air cannot be purged, the faulty lifters will have to be replaced.


Lash adjusters that are pumped up may cause PCM misfire codes to set. Continue to operate the engine until the lash adjusters bleed down. Using the scan tool, clear codes and malfunction history.








Perform a 3 mile road test.


Fill the cooling system surge tank to the FULL COLD line and check for leaks after the engine has been tested.





--------------------------------------鈥?br>




AND THIS :





Timing Chain, Sprockets, Tensioner Installation (DOHC)


Assemble the timing chain, the sprockets, the guides and the tensioners:

















Verify that the crankshaft is positioned at 90 degrees past top dead center (TDC). The crankshaft keyway and sprocket must be aligned with the cylinder block main bearing cap split line, as viewed from the accessory drive end, to prevent piston and valve damage.











Notice: Do not torque the camshaft retaining bolts against the 3/16 in. timing pins as it will damage the cylinder head.





Install the camshaft timing gears, the retaining bolts and washers. The letters FRT on the sprockets must face forward, away from the cylinder head. Wrench flats 24 mm are provided to hold the camshafts from rotating while torquing the bolts.





Tighten


Tighten the camshaft sprockets-to-camshafts to 100 N路m (74 lb ft).

















Bring the camshafts up to the number one TDC by rotating the camshaft and sprocket until the timing pins 4.77 mm (3/16 in) drill can be installed. Wrench flats are installed on the camshafts to assist with rotation.











Rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise, as viewed from the accessory drive end, until the number one cylinder is TDC. The crankshaft sprocket timing mark will align with cylinder block timing mark.











Caution: The camshaft can rotate during timing chain installation when the timing pins (4.77 mm (3/16 in) drill) have not been installed. Do not place fingers between the camshaft sprockets and the chain during the timing chain installation.





Place the timing chain over the camshaft sprockets and under the crankshaft sprocket.











Notice: Excess slack in the chain must be kept to the chain tensioner side (movable guide) of the cylinder block when installing the timing chain or the camshaft sprockets will not be correctly timed to the crankshaft sprocket.





Important: Two separated black link plates align the pip marks on the camshaft sprockets and another 2 paired link plates align the crankshaft sprocket tooth that is located at the six o%26#039;clock position. The pip mark on the crankshaft sprocket must be aligned with the timing mark on the cylinder block.








Important: Alignment of both timing pin holes, crankshaft sprocket pip mark with cylinder block mark, black links with camshaft and crankshaft sprockets must be correct to make sure the engine is properly timed.








Ensure that the black colored link plates are located over the pip mark on the cam sprockets only. The crankshaft sprocket tooth must be pointed directly downward at the 6 o%26#039;clock position between the 2 silver colored links. The pip mark on the crankshaft sprocket will be aligned with the timing mark on the cylinder block.











Important: The timing chain should be snug against the fixed guide.








Install the fixed guide.





Tighten


Tighten the timing chain fixed guide-to-block to 26 N路m (19 lb ft).

















Install the pivoting chain guide. Inspect for clearance between the block and the head. Torque the bolt and ensure the guide pivots freely.





Tighten


Tighten the timing chain pivot guide-to-head to 26 N路m (19 lb ft).





Important: The camshafts must be positioned fully forward prior to bearing cap installation.








Install the 2 forward remaining camshaft bearing caps and timing chain guide.





Tighten


Tighten the camshaft bearing cap-to-head (LL0) to 14 N路m (10 lbs ft).

















Retract the tensioner plunger and pin the ratchet lever using a 3.18 mm (1/8 in) or No 31 drill. Install the chain tension and torque the 2 bolts. Remove the drill and allow the tensioner plunger to extend.





Tighten


Tighten the timing chain tensioner-to-block to 19 N路m (14 lb ft).





Verify all timing marks for accuracy. Remove the camshaft timing pins.





--------------------------------------鈥?br>




SORRY THE PICS DIDN%26#039;T PASTE.|||yes you can but why you don%26#039;t replace your timing chain in dealer|||dont attempt this without a manual. usually you need to remove the grill and radiator/intercooler. also any fans or pulleys in the way. you will need a timing light and your manual will tell you how to determine TDC. (TOP DEAD CENTER) everything gets dialed in from there, good luck

How hard is it to change a timing chain on a 1993 toyota pickup truck with a four cylinder engine?

I am looking to help a friend change the timing chain in his truck because he cannot afford to take it to a shop to have it fixed.





Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated|||Whoa! 22R are notorious for timing chain failure. They also have the tendency to break the chain guide on the right side of the engine(as ur facing it). However this is a time consuming task even for a experienced mechanic. Removal of the head is not required but if you ask toyota they%26#039;ll tell you to remove it. If you or your buddy aren%26#039;t real confident that u can do it, then don%26#039;t! but if you decide to here are some pointers!!! Remove the valve cover there is a bolt hidden in that oil pocket on the front of the head don%26#039;t forget to remove it. Also make sure the harmonic balancer doesn/t have a groove around the sealing surface, if it does a repair sleeve should be installed. Another thing once u have the timing cover off inspect very closely the inside of it. These motors are bad at chewing into the cover when the chain guide breaks make sure this hasn%26#039;t happend to yours because there is a water jacket there. Well hope this helps|||it is not hard, but is time consuming, which motor, if memory serves me right, you have to take the head off first. my advice is to take to garage, or at least buy a good manual, and be precise in what you do.|||IT IS AS HARD TO PENERTRATE A VERGIN PUSSY|||I agree with mekanic if you don%26#039;t know what your doing at least buy a good manual and follow it as closely as possible|||its best to find someone who knows what they are doing because if you dint get the timing right and you for example snap the chain or it comes loose you will completely screw up your pistons and that usually means its time to buy a new engine so be careful. These are zero tolerance engines!|||IT IS VERY EASY FIRST LOCATE THE BIG BLACK ROUND KNOB ON THE MOTOR, THIS IS EASY IT HAS 7 1 0 ON IT. CAREFULLY UNSCREW THIS AND DROP IN YOUR NEW TIMING CHAIN ALL THE WAY.THEN VERY CAREFULLY PUT THE BLACK KNOB BACK ON. IF YOU DID THIS CORRECTLY THE BLACK KNOB WILL NOW READ O I L....|||Would that be a 22R Petrol, why would he need to change a timing chain, they are not prone for failure or ever requiring replacement.


A timing BELT on a %26quot;L%26quot; series diesel is different story, the critical part is lining up the timing marks and resetting the tensioner, but a relativly easy task for someone with mechanical experience.

How do you change the timing chain on a 92 chevy cavalier?

I need to know how to change the timing chain on a 92 chevy cavalier and what tools I need to do it? Please help!|||It would be a lot easier if you have access to a lift.....but first disconnect the battery cables (if you want to) thes release the tension on all the belts then, Remove the three 15mm bolts from the lower pulley(balancer), the remove the 18mm bolt from the center of the lower pulley, then remove the pulley, then install balancer puller (special tool) to remove pulley hub, then romove 10mm bolts from the front cover(i believe there are 8 or 10 of them, there are also 2 13mm bolts that comes from the bottom through the oil pan and the front of the timing cover which also needs to be removed) then remove cover (a little prying mat be necessary)....Rotate the crankshaft and the camshaft to where the dots on each are at the closest piont about 10 and 4 o%26#039;clock....Remove the 18mm bolt that goes through the camshaft to remove the chain and gears.... then remove the tensiones which is held with a 10mm bolt and a 40 torx bit.... Clean sealer or gasket material from mating surfaces reverse the order and install making sure the cam and crack dots are aligned and the pin is removed from the new tensioner.......... it%26#039;s a lot of work requiring a few special tools,, if THERE IS ANY DOUBT contact your local service tech........HOPE THAT HELPS|||There is no way to change the timing on the cavalier.

Changing timing chain and balancing chain... process?

I got a 1988 mf mitsubishi triton 4wd , coming up to 200 000, with a DOHC Direct overhead cam





Planning to replace both chains





Hard task for this vehicle





I have only done it on smaller vehicles





Do i necessarily have to take the engine out





I thought i would only have to really take off the front grill, radiator to get access to the general area





Your thoughts ?





thanks|||Go buy a manual.......I like Haynes, but Chiltons is good too.|||Hi


first the DOHC stands for DUEL OVERHEAD CAM. not Direct overhead cam. That means there are 2 cam%26#039;s in the overhead. There is one cam for the intake and one for the exhaust. It is most likely 1 chain not two with an idler gear to keep pusher on the chain over the two cams


good luck


tim

77buick 231. Changing timing chain.?

looking at front of motor , took cam button out,Then U have big gear distributor meshes with,thenfuel pump ecentric ,then the cam gear . The cam gear has 2 bolts going through it,which looks like its bolted to a round plate in back of it.Then thers the block.How do U take off the 1st gear the distributor


meshes with? Theres no bolt going through the center.





urgently needed. thanks dave|||If I remember correctly, the distrib drive is part of cam. If you unbolt the big timing gear, it may have a large center hole that will go over the distrib drive gear. Does the replacement gear have a large center hole?

Does any body know how to set the cam and crank on a dodge 318 when changing broken timing chain?

Set the dot on the crank gear at 12 o%26#039;clock with the dot on the cam gear at 6 o%26#039;clock when piston #1 is at TDC with distributor at 11 o%26#039;clock (spark plug for cylinder #1). The cam gear has a secondary mark, so don%26#039;t confuse it with the primary timing dot. Use a ruler or straight-edge to assist you in making sure the timing dots are aligned.|||you should have a firing seq. on your block. follow that to set your pistons. then chain

Have 1999 S-70 Volvo , my mechanic is saying when it hits 105000 miles i need to change timing chain?

Took to get Inspection ticket %26amp; he advised me w/ that kind of engine it would need timing chain %26amp; water pump %26amp; probably change Universal belt: Parts %26amp; Labor $995. Has anyone heard of this: thanks for the time Tooltall|||Yes, on timing belts, which yours has. Timing chains are recommended but usually last a lot longer than belts.





As far as the cost to replace it, he is way out of line. It should be between $216.00 and $271.00 (+ tax) parts and labor, depending on where you take it. (repairpal.com)|||My mom has a newer Volvo and was told the same thing, and paid about the same amount, not sure why tho I guess its just apart of the volvo maintenance|||normal shop talk wanting to do work


yes it should be done at some point but chains last alot longer than a belt my car has over 380,000 so far nothing been touch





some where a round 100,000 with a belt should be thinking about replacing


chain drive should last a while longer not saying it shouldnt be replace





call and talk with three local shops see what others might tell you


price wise about right|||Timing chains are more durable and should never need changing, unlike timing belts. Your mechanic is trying to scam you. I%26#039;ve never had to replace a timing chain in the 45 years I%26#039;ve been driving. That%26#039;s not to say they never break. But the cost of replacing a timing chain ($995 a pop) every 10 years would more than pay for a new engine replacement should it break.|||Your car has a timing belt not a long lasting chain. It%26#039;s recommended that it should be changed every 100,000 miles. They cost around $35.00. Unfortunately the water-pump must be removed first before the belt can be removed. Call several private mechanics or other new car dealers to get prices for this work. $995. is too steep for such a basic easy job.

How much does it cost to have a timing chain changed in a 1989 Buick LaSabre Custom?

I%26#039;ve been having this horrible clanking, rattling noise coming from the Engine. My father says it%26#039;s a lose timing chain. Just wondering if anyone knows of the cost to change it. Thanks!|||If is a V8, replacing the timing chain will cost under $600.00 and I am pretty sure that this car has no tensioner, Is just a chain and two sprockets. But I don%26#039;t think that noise will be coming from the timing chain, may be you have a loose water pump bearing?|||That Would Depend on how many cylinder your engine has? 4,6,or 8. An 89 buick LaSabre, pretty-sure it%26#039;s an eight,$800~$1,500. But wait, your problem may not be your chain, rather your timming chain- tensioner, if so cost diffence should be somewhat significant.

Is it possible that the crank seal oil leak is related to changing timing chain in my 03 Nissan Micra?

I had my timing chain replaced in August; following a few probs stalling when cold. At the time I was told that the timing chain had broken.


My car has been leaking oil ever since. The leak was noticed %26amp; reported within a month of the work being completed.


I have taken the car back for oil consumption tests a couple of times and carry a bottle of oil in the car with me these days.


On Saturday my car failed it%26#039;s NCT/MOT as a result of an oil leak on .


The garage are now forced to rectify this ongoing problem and are now saying that it is a crank oil seal leak; which is entirely separate to work done while replacing timing chain.


The original work cost an arm and a leg and I can%26#039;t afford further expense; especially if it is as a result of poor workmanship.


Does anyone out there have any bright ideas please?|||yes it is possible because they had to remove the cover ,and may not have got it sealed back up good,they are responsible for it to not leak since they did the work on it,so id take it back and see if they would offer to repair it,those two problems can be related though,that seal should have been replaced when they did the chain on it,a good repair shop always replaces the seals,whether it needs it at the time or not,so they should repair this one at their cost,not yours,good luck with it.|||i hope you get all this worked out with them,its a shame they didn%26#039;t do it right to begin with.good luck.

Report Abuse

|||The crankshaft oil seal should of been replaced along with the timing chain as a matter of procedure.But this will be pretty to argue about.Check your reciept it will be covered under parts .|||Could be that when the chain broke,the main bearing was damaged and caused the seal to go bad.If the timing belt or chain was not changed at a specific mileage that was recommended in the maintenance manuel it could be your fault and not your mechanic,however if he beat on the shaft with to great of force he could of caused the damage.Replace the seal and go forward is my recomendation.Without proof you pay.|||If your timing chain was broken the engine would not run at all.


If the timing chain was loose or worn it would have nothing to do with a stalling problem, the engine would just sound a bit noisy.


I suggest you go to your local car accessory shop and buy a can of engine oil seal repair, add it to your engine oil and see what happens.


Go for a quality brand, Millers, STP, Wynns etc.


Good luck!|||if the timing chain was replaced then thy should have fitted a new oil seal as it is situated in the timing cover and once disturbed it needs to be renewed and you could not have had a broken timing chain as it would have damaged your engine bent valves etc you have been had by the garage

I have a 67 dart 273. I`m changing the timing chain and cant get the cover off. Removed all bolt and pan bolts?

Do I pry at it or is there a special technique.|||Wow, that is a great car. Hope the body is good. I remember when that was a new car. That little V-8 can be made to run pretty quick and still not be a gas guzzler.





Try a little heat and tapping in all different directions with a rubber hammer. That might break loose the sealer under the cover. Be a bit gentle and it should do harm. Try to hit on a folded edge.|||The gasket sealer likely has it stuck together. I take a piece of copper tubing and flatten one end with a hammer. I file that down to a chisel like edge. Then I tap that between the cover and the block. The copper is softer than the other metals and won%26#039;t damage them. I do that in a couple of places until the cover pops loose.|||Seriously, you need to get down in there with a good flashlight and look all around the pan in some really tight places that you have ALL of the bolts out. Those little buggers can hide where you really can%26#039;t see. Good luck.|||take a hammer and a small screwdriver and in one corner pound the screwdriver in a little between the cover and engine and then pry it off.

Misfire within 4 months of changing timing chain on 1997 Pontiac Sunfire?

Ok I will explain in full detail all the cars issues, as to help maybe figure out the basic problem, some facts might not be useful, but keep everything in mind.





4 Months ago my car was running like sh*t. So I changed the plugs and wires, and did an oil change. I found out that my check engine light was from an EVAP canister and Purge solenoid. I changed them too. Then my timing chain tensioner had broke, and I had a private mechanic put a new timing set and tensioner on there. After I got it back everything seemed fine, except it idled really bad. The longer it would idle the worse the car would sound. Then I hauled the car on a car dolly 2 weeks ago about 400 miles. When I took it down off the dolly, a lot of water poured from the exhaust. Then the next day my ABS light came on, and stayed on for only a couple days and then went off. Yesterday when I started the car, it was knocking and shaking and the Check Engine light was on. Codes say its a misfire on #1, bad Purge Solenoid and bad EVAP. WTF? That is what I just paid almost $400 to get fixed. On top of everything, last night I turned on the car, and no headlights. Brights work fine, but no headlights, and the fuses are fine.





I%26#039;m not sure if any or all these problems are related or not, but im hoping someone can help. I already have $400 into what it%26#039;s saying the problem is.





Thank you for any help.|||I was able to get ripped Abs in under a week. Check out my Blog to see my workout log.





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Terry

I have a 2001 Toyota Tacoma, is changing the timing chain is a part of regular maintenance?

I think she has a 2.7, 4 cylinder 4X4 over 100k miles.|||You only need to mess with the chain if you are hearing noise from it.


It is not a scheduled maint interval on a chain.|||It should be done around 70,000-90,000 miles.|||No.|||I would not change the timing chain, unless it was bad. But , no it is not part of the regular maintenance.|||I disagree with those who say that it isn%26#039;t part of regular maintenance. ANYTHING which can go bad should be considered part of normal regular maintenance.





Timing chains do have lifetimes. Some are less at 70-100K miles and others last 300K miles. Depends on kind.


Most ways, it%26#039;s expected to go about 100K miles. I drive a 1991 Corolla that had 180K miles on it before the chain broke on me, and i was lucky, because if the chain breaks while driving (which is ONLY time it would break!!), then the pieces of the chain can cause internal damage to engine. It didn%26#039;t to mine but I was lucky.





Virtually everything on a car has regular maintenance. Some things are frequent maintenance like brakes and some are longer maintenance like tires. Brakes usually go about 1 year before needing to replace the parts, but those parts are MADE to be replaced. You can keep drving on those worn parts, and that will cause greater damage to parts that shouldn%26#039;t need replacing. Same thing as if a chain breaks on you.





On the engine or motor, there are parts that you just usually don%26#039;t get around to replacing UNTIL they break. Alternator, water pump, are couple of them. But you can tell when things are getting worn.


On some cars, especially some Toyotas, you can take off part of the front cover over the timing chain/belt, and see its condition.





One good thing, is if you ever do replace it, check on condition of the waterpump, because it sits right behind the timing chain, and is much better to get replaced at same time, than wait til it breaks and then spend all the same labor costs all over again. The pump cost me only $70 (cheap car) and I saved $300 on extra labor if I%26#039;d have done it months later.





So, to be safe, you can always have the chain/belt changed out every 100,000 miles. It%26#039;s about $300 every ten years. So doing it now, and also checking the water pump, will be good, especially if you%26#039;re working on the original ones in the TAcoma!! Then you%26#039;ll be safe and SECURE in the knowledge that those parts are already changed and brand new, able to last another ten years!! Rather than just driving until it breaks, pay towing fee of $150, etc, when you could have set the time yourself to change it out, rather than let the break fix the time for you!!





Admittedly, timing chains/belts aren%26#039;t considered normal maintenance, but this is something that should be considered, especially if you want to keep your Tacoma in prime great running condition.

Is changing a timing chain/belt on a 1991 Pontiac sunbird a difficult job for a do it yourselfer?

I have changed water pumps on vehicles. Some difficult, some not.|||It would take a professional mechanic about 3 hours to do it, if you take your time and do it slowly you can do it.





Here is the procedure:





SPECIAL TOOL REQUIRED (or equivalent)








J-33039-A, Cam drive belt tension adjustment wrench.


NOTE: O.E. manuals do NOT provide images of the timing marks, however, the alignment marks are located on the camshaft and crankshaft gears and the rear timing belt cover.





REMOVE OR DISCONNECT








Battery ground cable, then partially drain cooling system.


Coolant recovery reservoir.


Serpentine, A/C and/or P/S drive belts (if equipped).


Crankshaft pulley.


Timing belt cover attaching bolts and the cover.


Align marks on timing gears with the marks on the rear timing cover.


Loosen water pump bolts, then using J-33039-A on the water pump eccentric, release the belt tension.


Timing belt.


INSTALL OR CONNECT








Turn crankshaft and camshaft gears clockwise to align timing marks on timing belt rear cover.


Timing belt, making sure that the portion between the crankshaft and camshaft gears is in tension.


Using J-33039-A rotate water pump eccentric clockwise until tensioner contacts high torque stop, then tighten water pump bolts slightly.


Rotate the engine by the crankshaft gear bolt 720掳clockwise to seat timing belt on sprockets.


With engine at room temperature, rotate water pump eccentric with J-33039-A counterclockwise until hole in tensioner arm is inline with hole in base.


Tighten water pump attaching bolts to 25 Nm (18 ft lbs) and ensure tensioner holes remain aligned.


Timing belt cover and tighten bolts and nuts to 9 Nm (80 in lbs) .


Crankshaft pulley, apply Loctite(R) 242 to bolt threads and tighten to 21 Nm (15 ft lbs) .


Serpentine, A/C and/or P/S drive belts (if equipped).


Coolant recovery reservoir and fill cooling system.


Battery ground cable.|||Daxter gave you the procedure for the 2.0 L OHC I4 motor, and the procedure for the 3.1 L OHV V6 is different, yet similar. He%26#039;s right that you can do it yourself if you take your time. I no longer have my car, so I don%26#039;t have the factory service manual anymore or I%26#039;d give you that procedure.

Changing chain driven timing to gear driven good idea or no?

I am changing the timing change to a gear driven timing gear. The Maximum Advance/Retard at Camshaft: 8 degree Maximum Advance/Retard at Crankshaft: 16 degree What is this and how will it effect performance and will i need to change anythingelse|||Some high performance applications do this because it is less sloppy, more accurate. The degree%26#039;s is if you want to advance the timing, but not recommended for street, as you could cause detonation. Also, timing gears will be much louder, sounds like a WHINE of a supercharger.|||It%26#039;s pretty technical, and not an easy answer.


You will have to do a little research on your own.





Are you changing camshaft, and or crankshaft or leaving it stock.





Click this----%26gt;http://www.auto-ware.com/combust_bytes/c鈥?/a>





If all you%26#039;re doing is swaping out chain for gear, you should leave it at 0*|||Gears have their advantages and disadvantages. They are thought to provide more accurate valve timing, but it has been realized that they make bad harmonics, which can destroy the hardened finish on a flat tappet camshaft, and actially degrade timing accuracy because of the effect of the harmonics on the entire valvetrain (springs, valves, etc...).